Based upon the numbers above, though, it would appear that the Redhead actually outperform the 5 piece in every category. The AF website states multiple times that the 5 piece is preferable due to its superior strength. I am wondering if anyone can opine upon the strengths of the 5 piece vs the wedge style. The Access fund information was very helpful, thank you. Read every single article on this page if you're going to develop rock climbs:
#HILTI ANCHORS LIMESTONE HOW TO#
This information will not only give you an idea of what bolt to place now in your type of rock, but it will also give you information on how to remove bolts in the future. Taylor Spiegelberg wrote: The Access Fund has the best current information on bolts in my opinion. I have no ego about this and want to have the most accurate info available.
![hilti anchors limestone hilti anchors limestone](https://drilling-it.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Hilti-293472-TE-YX-1.jpg)
Thanks for any input you may have! Please don't hesitate to correct me if my numbers look whack or my logic is flawed. With hard desert limestone and desert granite in mind, other than ease of replacement, is there any real advantage of the 5 piece over the wedge? I would have thought strength, but the numbers put up by Redhead vs the Powers 5 piece would seem to contradict this notion. I understand the hole must be immaculate and anything less may lead to spinners where the wedge style is more forgiving in this respect. Not to mention if a placement is less than optimal it an be removed and the hole patched. Eventually even stainless will need replacing and the 5 piece fits that bill. 5 piece I understand a few pros and cons.
![hilti anchors limestone hilti anchors limestone](https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/81877c39-d059-4855-949b-3f4a4475c2bb/svn/hilti-masonry-concrete-anchors-3508711-64_400.jpg)
Does anyone know what those numbers look like? I know they are made specifically for climbing and have rolled threads, but I would love to see the numbers for comparison.Īs far as wedge vs. I can't find any numbers on the Fixe Hardware.
![hilti anchors limestone hilti anchors limestone](https://www.mdpi.com/materials/materials-13-04657/article_deploy/html/images/materials-13-04657-g004.png)
These bolts in 3 inch length can be had for around $2.50 each Prices for the 3 inch SD2 vary, but I found a box of 50 for $37 or $0.74 each.įor the Powers 3/8 inch 5 piece Powebolt+ embedded 2-3/4 inches in 4000 psi concrete, the numbers, found here, look as follows:Īnnoyingly, Powers does not seem to provide pullout or ultimate steel strength in the 3/8 inch size. Steel strength in tension= 6625 Lbs= 29.4kn Their numbers, Per Powers here, for their 3/8 inch SD2 wedge bolt embedded 2-3/8 inches in 4000psi concrete look like this: Powers seems to be the other big hardware store name. I don't know how much credence to afford this claim but did find it intriguing. It is also notable that the Redhead website, per their numbers, claim that their hardware beat out Hilti in almost every category. The 304 stainless version goes for about $1 each. These numbers seem respectable and Redhead does make a 3 inch long 316 stainless bolt available for around $4 per bolt.
![hilti anchors limestone hilti anchors limestone](https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/3a73e090-5b04-4ecf-b7ad-5afb2a02d80c/svn/hilti-masonry-concrete-anchors-3543437-64_600.jpg)
Steel strength in tension= 5815 Lbs from the first table above or 6720 Lbs from the second table making comparisons to other brands. Pullout strength with 2-5/8 embedment depth= 3469 Lbs In terms of wedge bolts, for a 3/8 inch Redhead wedge bolt in 4,000 PSI concrete with 3 inch embedment depth the tables on the Redhead website here and here list the following: Many sources lament the "garbage hardware store bolt" but it seems like the hardware store stuff puts up some very respectable numbers. It seems that this article may be outdated, though. The ASCA website here cites Petzl, HIlti, Redhead, and RAWL, in that order, as acceptable wedge style bolts. Rest assured that I will be speaking with the local route developers to ensure that any routes would be consistent with local standards and ethics and that I will be making every effort to not step on toes.I additionally want to get their opinions on the best hardware for the local rock. I am really looking for technical information and opinions regarding the best hardware for the job here. I know bolting can be a touchy subject and opinions seem to be very strong. As a generalization the environments I am most curious about are dry desert limestone and granite. I have been thinking about putting up some routes and have found there to be a ton of information which, at times, is contradictory regarding bolt selection.